[Review] Magnetised flying stand from Back2base-ix

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[Review] Magnetised flying stand from Back2base-ix

Post#1 » Oct 26 2013 07:35

Magnetised Flying Stand
Supplier: Back2base-ix

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Required skill level: Beginner/Intermediate

General overview: Ordering online was simple,
Payment is by Paypal, Bank Deposit and Money Orders and at this time the cost was AUS$12.95 per set of 4 bases.
Delivery was fast, well packed and reasonably priced.

What you get: 1 set includes the following

4 x 60mm Round Bases
2 x 45mm Pegs
2 x 30mm Pegs
4 x Large Support Arms
4 x Small Support Arms
8 x 3mm x 3mm x 3mm Square RE Magnets
8 x 3mm x 2mm Disc RE Magnets

The items come with a protective paper coating so as not to be scratched during transit (my small support arms had a clear plastic coating).

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The small support arms would work on smaller skimmers (Piranha) but I bought these specifically for my HH and DF so I used the large support arms.

Assembly:Detailed build instructions can be found in the website link and are very good.
The protective paper needs to be carefully removed to ensure that the acrylic is not scratched or cut at this stage.
I used the tip of a sharp modelling blade to lift a section of the paper and then pulled the paper off with my fingers.

The instructions state that the peg is a snug fit. Mine where loose so had to be glued in place.
Back2base-ix wrote:Already being a snug fit, you may need to give a little down ward pressure onto a flat surface for the peg to make definate contact with the base at the join. Using super glue will simply make sure that it never falls out.


Note: Plastic glue will not work on this acrylic. You need super-glue or a specialist acrylic glue.

Reproduced with kind permission from Back2base-ix wrote:These instructions are for the Large Stands only. For the Small Stands please see the appropriate listing as they are different for assembly purposes.

STEP 1: Starting with your components, 1 Base, 1 Peg, 2 Round 3mm (diameter) x 2mm (thickness) Magnets, 2 Square 3mm Magnets and either the large or small support arm (depending on the kit you are using it for).

Remove your protective paper coating from both the base, peg and support arm.

STEP 2: Some people find it ideal to super glue the peg into the stand at this stage, as it gives something more to hold onto while placing magnets.

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Already being a snug fit, you may need to give a little down ward pressure onto a flat surface for the peg to make definite contact with the base at the join. Using super glue will simply make sure that it never falls out.

STEP 3: Before placing and gluing any magnets, you will need to make sure of polarity. Simply take one square and one round magnet and let them join together. Do this for 2 pairs (and keep them a good distance away from each other so you don't get your polarities mixed up). This is how the magnets will sit while your model is joined to the stand.

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STEP 4: Start by test fitting your square magnet into one of the two small square slots at the top of the peg (as pictured). The top surface of the square magnet will sit flush with the top of the peg, leaving the round magnet sitting proud.

Remove the magnets and apply super glue to the three surfaces you noticed that come in contact with the peg. Keep the super glue as minimal as possible, so as to minimise mess. The magnet is a snug fit also.

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Allow to dry.

STEP 4a: Again, test fit your second square magnet into the other small square slots at the top of the peg (as pictured). The top surface of the square magnet will sit flush with the top of the peg, leaving the round magnet sitting proud.

Remove the magnets and apply super glue to the three surfaces you noticed that come in contact with the peg. Keep the super glue as minimal as possible, so as to minimise mess. The magnet is a snug fit also.

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Set this aside and allow to dry.
STEP 5: Moving onto your model to be mounted on the stand, locate where your normal flight stand peg would go.

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STEP 6: Drill the hole out to a diameter of 3mm. The best way to do this while putting minimal stress on small plastic components is to run a 3mm drill bit in a cordless drill on a backwards setting. This actually turns the excess plastic into powder under a more controlled action, rather than removing large amounts of swarf too quickly and undesirably.

Drill to a minimum of 2mm deep to allow full insertion of the round magnet, any less and you wont get it to sit flush with the models surface.

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STEP 6a: Using your flight stand peg as a marker (with magnets attached), locate where you want the second magnet hole to be drilled. On larger kits with more weight in one location, it is better to have the second magnet closer to that area. For example, if your skimmer/flyer has a rear turret (thus extra weight at the rear) place the second magnet hole towards the rear, when compared to the original.

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STEP 7: It is recommended to use a pin vice with a 1mm drill bit to get this started. The 1mm hole will act as a pilot hole for your 3mm drill bit.

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STEP 8: Drill the hole out to a diameter of 3mm. The best way to do this while putting minimal stress on small plastic components is to run a 3mm drill bit in a cordless drill on a backwards setting. This actually turns the excess plastic into powder under a more controlled action, rather than removing large amounts of swarf too quickly and undesirably.

Drill to a minimum of 2mm deep to allow full insertion of the round magnet, any less and you wont get it to sit flush with the models surface.

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STEP 9: Place a minimal amount of super glue in each hole you have drilled out. With the round magnets still attached to the peg as shown here (so as to keep your polarity correct) push the round magnets into the holes.

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STEP 10: The peg and square magnets wont allow you to push the round magnets any further than flush with the models surface. So even if you have drilled more than 2mm, it simply isn't a problem.

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STEP 11: All that is left is for you to choose which support arm to place in the centre slot. Two sizes are supplied per stand, giving you the best possible outcomes, depending on the kit your are assembling.

Simply slide either arm onto the centre slot, preferably adding a minimal amount of super glue to keep it in place. Support arms are also a snug fit onto the peg.

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These arms have been designed to simply add left and right OR forward and backward support (depending on your magnet location). The two magnets will do all of the grabbing work, the arm will just stop any tip when the model is moved.

Once dry you have now fully assembled your Magnetic Acrylic Flight Stand. You can now place your model on-top and see how it clicks into position.


I sprayed my bases black before I glued the pegs in and later I will be adding sand and rocks in the same way as my other bases.
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The square magnets are a fairly tight fit into the support arm but I used super-glue just to make sure.
Make sure that they are flush with the top of the support arm.

Follow the instructions to drill the holes and fix the magnets in the correct location on the model.

End result:If you follow the instructions and take care you get a firm, strong connection.

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You can even do this but at your own risk ;)

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Conclusion: If you, like me, are tired of constantly having to replace the GW peg on your flying stands because they have broken off or sick of your Devilfish spinning around when knocked then having to argue what direction it was facing then these are for you. Simple, strong and effective. I bought enough to retrofit 12 HH or DF and would highly recommend them.

User avatar
El'mo
Shas'El
Shas'El
Posts: 1579
Contact:

Re: [Review] Magnetised flying stand from Back2base-ix

Post#2 » Nov 01 2013 01:19

Just to bring this review up to date with photos of the completed stand

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Left - Back2base stand
Right - Standard GW stand

And fitted to an Ionhead (which will be repainted in the near future ;))

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