Greetings once again,
Thank you all for the comments on my first post, I am a little overwhelmed. It seems that a number of people have expressed interest so I am happy to include a tutorial below. If it needs any clarification, or expansion, Please let me know and I will edit.Mu'kau's Camouflage tutorial:
In this tutorial will explain how I apply my urban camouflage pattern.
Base coat: Citadel Foundation Adeptus Battlegrey.
Mid tone: Citadel Fortress Grey.
Vehicle dags: 50%Vallejo offwhite (70820) 50% Citadel Fortress Grey.
Battlesuit and infantry dags: Vallejo off white (70820)
Machine parts: Citadel Foundation Charadon Granite (Truly the greatest colour ever invented)
Missile nose cones and other "danger" parts: Citadel shadow grey.
The basic pattern I devised for the camouflage on my cadre is this:
When starting, I devised a number of rules to follow in order for the army to look consistent.
The basic rules I adhered to when applying the pattern were that the it did not line up with any panel lines on the model, all of the mid tone panels would be four sided, and all of the top layer “dags” would be triangles or trapezoids. Also that the pattern scale would be relatively large compared to the model that it was to be applied to, so that the overall regularity of the pattern would not be evident. On the vehicles, I have generally applied 4 or 5 panels of the mid tone colour on the main hull, and 2 mid tone panels on the engines and drones. The vehicles have very light grey dags as the near white colour used on the infantry models looked too stark, conversely, the light grey dags did not stand out enough on the Infantry. Fire warriors and battlesuits have 2 mid tone panels per armour or body section. I have only applied the white dags on Fire Warrior helmets and left shoulder pads because the tiny dags on the other armour panels broke up the lines of the models too much.
I broke my second rule with the Tigershark, as the mid tone four sided panels looked too much like a grid on such a large model, and scaling up the pattern any further meant that it did not fit well with the tanks that I had already completed, so I went with an irregular shape. Highlighting was kept to 2 stages on all models to prevent the greys blending together too much when viewed from a distance.
This technique involves quite a lot painting over the same area more than once, so its important to keep your paints thin!
On the vehicles and suits, I start by roughly blocking out the mid tone colour panels with a relatively dry brush and only a little water added to the paint. I then tidy the lines with a thinned down coat of the base colour. This is why I use a Citadel foundation paint as the base, it covers really well. It is at this stage that I usually give the armour panel lines a Black wash. I find that the initial dry brush leaves an extremely fine texture on the surface of the model which helps the later, much thinner coats stay where they are supposed to be while drying and helps me stay inside the lines.
To get a solid colour and a nice smooth finish on the mid grey panels usually takes 2-3 coats. Once these have been applied I go back and tidy over any mistakes again with the base colour
The next part is to start painting the dags. I use a fairly large, long bristled brush. This helps keep the lines straight because you can use the side of the brush and its really only the pointed corners that you will need to tidy I paint a roughly triangle, again with slightly drier paint and then fill in with 2 applications of much thinner paint , then tidy up with whichever colour the dag shape is sitting on. Where I have a dag crossing 2 areas of colour, I paint a V over the boundary then define the rest of the shape later, with thinner paint. As long as the sides of the V are straight, and your brush strokes cross over at the point, you will get a good shape.
It is actually much easier to apply this scheme to small infantry models than tanks, as the panels are so much smaller. You can define and mostly fill a shape with one or two brush strokes using slightly thicker paint.
I hope that this post will be of some help to those wishing to apply this or a similar camo scheme to their models.
Thank you to Wolfs16
for the warp speed response to my troublesome username and the promotion!Militant.Jester
: I'm not sure where the Stealth Suit part came from, I think it is from the Imperial guard weapons sprue.Stwide
: Anything with a stealth field generator is getting the darker scheme.Whitefire
: If red is your colour, then perhaps you could try something like this: